

Moderator: Scott Waters
Actually, the way to capture the maximum amount of detail in an image is just the opposite. Because of some mathematical mumbo jumbo I neither understand nor care about, there is more pixel information contained in the brighter areas of a picture than in the darker areas. So if you overexpose a picture and darken it slightly in PS, there is detail in the lighter areas that can be recovered. But if you underexpose a photo, the darker areas don't have as much detail hidden in them. So if you try to bring up the exposure (lighten it) in PS, the computer algorithms have to "make up" the pixel information that is missing and this creates "noise" in the photo (usually colored specks).Porter wrote:Dude... chrish...![]()
All my shots are purposely under exposed like that. I do it because it gives me a sharper image than the staying brighter.
Can I have my photo back now please...?Porter wrote:Dude... chrish...![]()
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Do you have flickr? Any chance I van just download that from you?Its just that photo Im having the problem with...
MonarchzMan wrote:I may also add that you might look into getting an X-Rite Color Checker. Essentially, this will allow you to do a few things. First, you can create a profile for a particular lens, camera body, and lighting environment that can be applied to photos later on. While this may not be ideal because lighting environment does change and no two are exactly the same, it does get you a closer ball park because lenses and camera sensors do have different color sensitivities. If you want moment to moment corrections, you can take a picture with the color checker in the photo and then your desired photo. This also gives you an 18% neutral gray card swatch that you can use to calibrate white balance.
Now pay attention No Brainer. The reason the dunes look green is because your WB is off. If you shoot in JPEG it will be more difficult to fix your WB than it will be if you shoot RAW. If you want to shoot in JPEG than you should invest in one of the many systems to get the proper WB. like grey cards. The dull color of the Rattlesnake is a simple fix. If the light you are using is harsh, expect the results to be harsh. Dude you need more help with your manners than your photography.Porter wrote:If you zoom in on the 2 gopher snakes shots, youll see that the darker one is sharper. I dont know what else can or needs to be said here that wont result in pointless argument
With all due respect, Im not asking for advice about what I shoulda done or should do next time. I also am not asking how to take a photo that doesnt have grain. Thats no brainer stuff... I get a sharper image with a little grain and grain doesnt bother me like it bothers the popular opinion. Im just trying to get 2 shots fixed (dunes looked green tinted and the rattler lacks color info due to angle to the sun), so I can add them to the 50+ Ive already fixed....
Robert, if youre still out there, can you upload your dune fix to flickr so I can download?
The rattler shot isnt fixed, unless you call that shot photography enjoyable to look at. Im not gonna quote myself again, already tried that... So, I'll just say it, THIS IS MY LAST YEAR DOING PHOTOGRAPHY AND I HAVE ALREADY TAKEN THE SHOT I PLAN TO USE FOR MY LAST POST....This post is about fixing a shot...Not about asking why I dont shoot raw to save space on my card. Only one of us is having trouble paying attention...dthor68 wrote:
Now pay attention No Brainer. The reason the dunes look green is because your WB is off. If you shoot in JPEG it will be more difficult to fix your WB than it will be if you shoot RAW. If you want to shoot in JPEG than you should invest in one of the many systems to get the proper WB. like grey cards. The dull color of the Rattlesnake is a simple fix. If the light you are using is harsh, expect the results to be harsh. Dude you need more help with your manners than your photography.
It isn't a mystery. The darker one is sharper for one simple reason - the shutter speed was faster....which is also why it is underexposed and darker. It is all interrelated. You need to learn to expose your photo correctly while maintaining adequate shutter speed to make it sharp enough. Generally, you should choose a shutter speed that is at least the inverse of the focal length of the lens. If you can't do this, you need to adjust the aperture or ISO accordingly (or use flash or a tripod).Porter wrote:If you zoom in on the 2 gopher snakes shots, youll see that the darker one is sharper. I dont know what else can or needs to be said here that wont result in pointless argument
Porter wrote:There is definitely motion going on in the beetle pics...but Im a pretty damn good accurate shot and those were the best captures of that sequence taking inbetween movement (the other shots more blurry) and the first shot posted above was when the bird wasnt moving and I had a dead center focus point on his eye. So I think you are right about it reacting to background objects... I took a desert trip recently and was so sleep-deprived and trying to change settings on my camera to compensate for the gloomy Cloud Haze and bright Sun of the Des that I may have changed something in settings and forgot to put it back how it was...
Could these settings have something to do with the focus on the back ground objects?
20160726_192732 by California Reptile & Amphibian Appreciation, on Flickr
20160726_192721 by California Reptile & Amphibian Appreciation, on Flickr
I think you have to switch to desktop view for the exif info. it shows up on my end as long as its not mobile view...excuse my retarded phone ...meshed the page info boxes together LOL but as you can see in screenshot the information is below the photo and that info is For the first picture at the top of this post. I also took a picture of the properties from my laptop for one of the bug eating photos. check out all the combined settings and tell me what you think now that you can see everything or if you need more info let me know and I'll photo and post it... Thanks man
Screenshot_2016-07-26-19-36-36 by California Reptile & Amphibian Appreciation, on Flickr
20160726_192531 by California Reptile & Amphibian Appreciation, on Flickr
I remember reading about spot tune In the reviews for this lens when I was thinking of buying it... I really don't want to do it unless I have to so hopefully one of these settings are set wrong or maybe my f-stop Approach ISO and all that stuff is just whack... LOL I DK. the lens is a Tamron telephoto plus Pro 300 with ultrasonic silent Drive autofocus and VC SP f - 4 - 5.6